The Drakensberg (mountains of the Dragon), which is a World Heritage Site, is affectionately called the “Berg”. It stretches along two thirds of the western border of KwaZulu-Natal for a distance of 200km and forms the border with Lesotho. In the north it borders on the Maloti range and Golden Gate. It is actually an escarpment and to the west it loses altitude gradually through Lesotho. This does not imply that the top is at all flat. It is an eiderdown of enormous hills and valleys. The highest points are about 3300m and the resorts are at about 1500m.
While the main range is quite formidable and hiking there requires expertise and fitness, the little ‘Berg or foothills are more gentle. They offer moderate hikes over grassy knolls and through shady gorges with waterfalls and teeming with birdlife.
Although there are different areas, each basically situated in a valley and with different names they are all continuous and all part of the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park. Authors of guide books often place emphasis on different regions. This leads visitors to think their life depends on visiting a certain region. That is not true. On a scale from one to ten, every region is much the same though each area is unique in its own way. So relax and enjoy.
Geographically, the Drakensberg has an extension which runs east through Mpumalanga Province at a much lower altitude. While being a lovely area this is not the “true Drakensberg”.
Recently, rather arbitrary designations of Northern, Central and Southern Berg are being used. North would be from Royal Natal National
Park down to Cathedral Peak, Central from Cathedral to Giants
Castle and the South from there to beyond Sani Pass.
That leaves an enormous area further south around uMzimkhulu, Bushman’s Nek and Sehlabathebe. I suppose this is the far south.
The range was formed volcanically and the Berg is basalt and the little Berg is sandstone.
Climate and Seasons
The climate is surprisingly mild , a typical winter’s day may have a mininum of 2° and maximum of 20°, and that is only in June and July. Many people will tell you that it is very cold here in winter. The fact is we are warmer than Johannesburg. When the Cape is wet and cold in winter and spring we have warm dry days (nights may be cold).
Summers are warm to hot with odd thunderstorms. These are more likely to occur in the afternoon and at night.
The rainy season is from October to March. Most flowers appear late in October.
April and May are the best months, not too hot or cold and not too dry or wet. June, July, August and September are also great for hiking. By September guests are already swimming!!
In winter cold fronts pass every few weeks and bring some snow to the summits. This results in colder weather for a few days.
Inkosana Lodge
This great backpackers in the the Central ‘Berg . A wide range of activities and hikes are available to guests . See Inkosana Lodge on the page About KwaZulu-Natal and for full details see www.inkosana.co.za on the links page.
Other areas of the Central ‘Berg and Northern ‘Berg
Cathedral Peak lies 45 minutes north of Inkosana. There are a wide range of excellent day walks here. These range from easy strolls to 5 or 6 hour hikes.
Cathedral Peak is a challenging 11 hour hike and although it is not actually
technical, there are a few tricky spots and it is best to take a guide.
There is a rock art centre in the area. Good examples of rock art are to be
found in shelters. Guides are recommended for walks to shelters.
North of Cathedral is Royal Natal Park which features the Amphitheatre cirque. One of the best walks is the walk up the Gorge to below the Devils Tooth. A two hour drive takes one up into the Free State and around the back to Sentinel car park. From here there is a 6 hour return walk aided by chain ladders up the summit and the top of the Tugela Falls. It is wise to choose a clear day to full enjoy the views.
Immediately South of Inkosana and one hour away is the beautiful Injisuthi Valley. A good long walk is that to Marble baths where one can relax in natural pools. It is possible to take a guided walk to Battle Cave, one of the most famous rock art sites. South of that lies Giants Castle with the Main Cave and museum offering a great introduction to the Bushman way of life. There are, as usual, many other walks. In winter one may book the Lammergeyer hide and watch birds of prey feeding all day long.
ALL THE ABOVE ARE EASY DAY TRIPS FROM INKOSANA with the exception of Sentinal car park which is a long drive.
Flora and Fauna
There are over 2000 species of plants in the area of which 400 are found only here. These range from the Jurassic cycads to ferns, grasses and the many, many more complex plant types. Books have been published on the topic and the gardens at Inkosana provide a good introduction. November is a good time to see most wild flowers.
While the ’Berg' is not a game park as such, many species of antelope occur such as Rhebuck, Klipspringer, Eland, Red Hartebeest and so on. There are many small cat species. Even leopard, which were nearly wiped out by early farmers, are reappearing. Most animals are shy and it takes a trained eye to spot them. Many are nocturnal. There are otter, mongoose, porcupine, aardvark and many kinds of snakes.
The birdlife is prolific with daily sightings of small raptors, eagle, vulture, lammergeyer and even ground hornbill and secretary birds.
Bushman (San) Rock art
There are many shelters with rock art all over the Drakensberg. In this valley we have Zulu Cave. At Cathedral peak there is an interpretive centre and many shelters and also at and Royal Natal Park. At Giants Castle there is the Main Cave and museum with an exhibit of the Bushman way of life. These are all an easy day trip by car from Inkosana. In the southern Berg there are also rock art sites and an interpretive centre at Kamberg.
Rock and Ice Climbing
Mountaineering and rock climbing in the Drakensberg has been taking place for the past 70 years.
Most of the climbing takes place on the upper layers of Basalt rock between 2800 metres and 3100 metres. To-date most of the established and documented routes are located in the central and northern part of the range. The climbs range from easy scrambles to very severe challenges. Over time certain routes have become popular “trade” routes such as the Standard Route and Angus Leppan route on Sentinel Peak in the far north of the range. Other poplular routes include the standard routes on Mponjwana, Monk's Cowl, The Pyramid and Hooper's Route on the Bell. These are all easy to moderate climbs. The serious routes include The Devil's Tooth, Here be Dragons on Sentinel and Lammergier on Giant's Castle.
Ice-climbing was started in the mid 80s in the Giant's Castle and Loteni areas and in the last 10 years the ice at Sani Pass has become very popular venue. Ice routes in the Drakensberg form every year and those at Giant's Castle are of world class standard. These routes at Giant's Catle and Sani Pass attract many climbers every winter season.
Route descriptions for both rock and ice climbs can be obtained from the Mountain Club of South Africa's website. The Mountain Club also publishes a route guide under the title, Rock and Ice Climbs of the Drakensberg 3rd edition. Even with a route guide, the routes are not easy to find. It is best to go out with other climbers who know the area.
Peak High Mountaineering, operated by Gavin Raubenheimer is the only technical mountain guiding company operating in the range. More information on conditions of rock and ice routes can be found at www.peakhigh.co.za.
Medical emergencies in the Drakensberg fall under the authority of the Provincial Emergency Medical Rescue Service (EMRS). However, due to the hazards and technical difficulties encountered in the Drakensberg, rescues are carried out in conjunction with the Kwa-Zulu Natal Section of the Mountain Club of South Africa. This highly efficient and well-equipped rescue team is supported by helicopters from the South African Air Force’s 15 Squadron based in Durban. The cost of the rescue is covered in the entry permit of the park. Climbers and trekkers never the less need to carry medical insurance for medical care if they need to be hospitalised.
Overnight Trails
It is a wonderful experience to traverse the little ‘Berg' or spend some time on the big ‘Berg'. In the Central and Northern ‘Berg' there are no fixed routes or huts. Use can be made of caves, but these are not always easy to find. Hikers have to plan their own way with the help of the 1:50000 maps. Inkosana can assist in this regard. You need to bring all the gear including tents.
The terrain is tough and weather can be harsh. Previous experience is essential.
Southern ‘Berg
This area lies south of Giants Castle. There are excellent opportunities for all the usual activities. An important stop is at Sani Pass Backpackers from where there is 4x4 access up the Sani Pass to Lesotho.
Lesotho
This is an independent country at high altitude to the west of the Drakensberg. Overnight hikers may traverse the border but passports are not required in this case. By road the access is from the Free State to the north of Royal Natal Park, or by 4x4 over Sani Pass in the south.
Battlefields
Within a few hours of Inkosana are a number of important battlefields
of the Anglo Boer War such as Spioenkop, Colenso and Ladysmith.
The Anglo-Zulu war sites are at Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift with a good museum
at Dundee. Close by is the memorial at Bloodriver, the scene of the epic Boer–Zulu
battle.
Eastern Free State
North and west of Royal Natal Park lies the eastern Free State. Here the mountains are called the Malotis. Golden Gate Park has beautiful sandstone formations and the village of Clarens is a great centre for art and eating out. Karma Backpackers in Kestell is a good base for the region and also offers easy access to Sentinal car park if you are doing the top of the Amphitheatre.
